A week ago last Sunday, we treated ourself to a lovely meal in the fields of West Star Farm outside of Madison. The occasion was the Madison stop of Outstanding in the Field, which is “a roving culinary adventure – literally a restaurant without walls”, that matches local chefs with local farms in order for people to enjoy foods produced locally with those who planted, raised, and harvested them.
We arrived to sample cocktails prepared with spirits from Deaths Door on Washington Island. The cucumber mint mojitos were a hit, and we enjoyed snacking on homemade charcuterie, including prosciutto and pheasant liverwurst, along with some amazing goat cheese from Fantome Farm. Fantome’s moreso, a mild chevre dusted with ash, was particularly amazing. And it was great to enjoy the cheeses, while talking to its producers, Anne Topham and Judy Borree, and listening to the history behind their 14 goat farm in the hills near Ridgeway, WI.
We then had a tour of the fields of West Star Farm by George and Sandy Kohn, who grow a wide range of produce that supplies several area restaurants, Willy Street Coop, as well as their own CSA program.
After the brief tour of the field, the 100+ guests sat on long tables that snaked their way through the fields, and were then served an amazing family style meal while we got to know our newfound dining companions, some of whom had traveled from all around the Midwest and beyond for that night’s dinner.
Chef Tory Miller of l’Etoile seemed to outdo himself with each course. The salad course was grilled West Star beets with “dragon tongue” beans, dressed with some more Fantome Farm chevre, and smoked almonds. Even Mr. Foodie, a notorious beet avoider, thought the preparation was particularly good.
A second salad course paired heirloom tomatoes with some Willow Creek Farms grilled pork belly, drizzled with a tangy vinaigrette and topped with some nutty SarVecchio parmesan.
Willow Creek pork made a second appearance in the next course, with a sliced loin cuts served with sweet corn tamales and a dark chocolate mole.
If all that wasn’t enough, Chef Tory Miller grilled Fountain Prairie ribeyes to just medium rare, and then served them sliced with Jones Valley Farm rose gold potatoes, bottle onions, and Black Earth Valley mushrooms.
Dessert was a perfect Wisconsin summer treat of vanilla bean frozen custard with mixed berries and a hickory nut shortbread.
The wines served with the meal were a mixed bag, with us loving the 2007 Jermann Vinnaioli Vinnae Ribolla, a golden, food friendly white, while the Cabernet Franc was an OK red. For something like Tory Millers grilled ribeye, we wanted something with a bit more heft in a red.
With the sun set and the fireflies out (and a few mosquitos), we made our way back to our car, thoroughly satisfied with our dinner in the fields.
Leave a Reply